Location: Manikaran, India and McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala), India
Date: February 26, 2010

Before coming to Dharmasala, I spent a few days in the Parvati Valley, in a tiny village called Manikaran. After switching buses three times to accumulate to more than a 20 hour bus ride (on a local bus, which means sitting 3 in a row on a bench-like seat with no padding), I arrived in Manikaran. Our few days in the tiny village were splendid, and I got the chance to do many things in my 2 days there. Yet, the journey had a few downs in addition to all of its ups. I do admit to loving India, but this particular trip was a little bit trying. The bus rides themselves were ok, and I am pretty acclimated to traveling on bumpy roads, but when the small motion sick Nepalese boy threw up 2 inches from my bag in the aisle of the bus and I watched it creep closer and closer to my bag for the next for 50 kilometers (AKA 3 hours!), I was not too thrilled. Then we arrived at our destination at 5am and found an open hostel. Yet, when I got ready to sleep and went to brush my teeth, I saw about 6 foot long worms swimming in the toilet bowl! The hostel worker didn’t see any issue, “No problem- they don’t come out, they stay inside…” EW!!!!! So, needless to say, I didn’t have the sweetest dreams that night. The next day the nightmare of the vomit and the worms had faded a bit, and I got to explore the tiny tourist-free town. The town is centered around a beautiful rainbow colored temple, and there are holy baths that are there for men and women.

The piles of potatoes and lettuce used for mass food making.

We got to see the temple and then followed the crowd to a place that served food. When we entered, we saw that is was sort of a cafeteria, with strips of cloth on the ground that people sat on while they ate. There were gigantic pots for cooking and piles upon piles of vegetables on the crowd. We sat and they served us the most delicious Indian meal I have had so far. When we got up to pay, they told us that it was a free meal, open to everyone. I was completely taken aback by this notion- nothing in India is free, especially for tourists, and here was this temple that offered us amazing service and generosity at no cost.

From left to right: Swami, his sister and his friend.

In the afternoon, I saw a few children reading from an English textbook, so I went to chat with them. Since it was a village town, I assumed that the smaller kids wouldn’t be able to speak English, but Swami, the boy, really impressed me, and we ended up reading and chatting for an hour or so while looking over his book. During this time, the people on the streets kind of came up and watched us, surprised to see a tourist reading with a little local boy. It was a lovely afternoon.

Still haven't figured out what this animal is- something between a cow and a yak.

View of the Himalayas!

The small town of Manikaran.

McLeod Ganj, current home of the Dalai Lama.

The tiny town of Pulgar, a 2 mile hike from the road.

Drying clothes in front of the Himalayas.

Tibetan temple complex.

The next night, my friends Roisin and Louie and I took a bus to Dharmasala, the home of the Dalai Lama. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet, over 250,000 Tibetans traveled on foot over the Himalayas and settled in this town. Most of their heritage had been destroyed by the Chinese, and they are still unable to practice their religion freely in Tibet. So, buried in this small mountain town are hundreds of maroon and gold robed Buddhist monks, wandering the streets and praying in the temple. I got to visit the temple yesterday where the monks sing their prayers, and where the Dalai Lama stays when he is in McLeod Ganj. I got the pleasure of hearing the monks sing and then walking around the temple. It was extraordinary to see them all at prayer, and if you have never heard Tibetan Monks sing, I highly recommend looking it up. The big news is that the Dalai Lama will be here in 2 days! Right now he is in the states, but he is coming home, and I get to see him here in McLeod Ganj! I’ve changed a little bit of my schedule so I am able to stay and hear his teachings here and I couldn’t be more excited!!! Heading to a Tibetan refugee school today and then will do some light trekking in these beautiful mountains.

Tibetan monks at prayer.

Thinking about everyone at home and wishing you all much love.

Rishikesh / I love monkeys.

Location: Rishikesh, India
Date: February 20, 2010

*Note: After uploading these pictures and reviewing the post, I noticed how many pictures of monkeys I had put up...I hadn't intended to show so many pictures of them, but here they all are, for your enjoyment :)

If you want to travel in India, try your best to save Rishikesh for the end of your trip. This peaceful town that is located along the holy Ganges river will suck you in and you’ll want to bathe in her beauty for weeks. I will pull myself out of this town in the next day or so, but for now I am indulging myself in all this town has to offer: daily yoga, all vegetarian food, monkeys galore, Setsung gatherings?, and hilltop temples.

A Sadhu sitting on the side of the road. Sadhus typically wear orange turbans and clothing, and they are Hindu holy men who are on a wandering path. They have given up earthly possessions, and walk around and beg for food.

The bridge walk

The first day I went on an adventure walk with my two new friends, Roisin and Thyaalina. We explored the town, and crossed one of the suspension pedestrian bridges that links this town to Ram Jhula, a neighboring village. Walking across the bridge was like walking through a dream. There were so many people crossing, and you had to share your narrow path with monkeys, cows, and motorcycles…I was instantly enamored with the bridge crossings.

A little girl on the steps. Many of the children in Northern India wear eyeliner, which makes their eyes look huge. I haven't gotten a straight answer yet on why they do this- I was told by one person that it makes your eyes cleaner and by another that it deflects evil spirits....

The past few days I have spent as a student of the Hindu culture. This morning I participated in a set sung(not sure about spelling) gathering, with is a traditional Hindu ceremony (though I think this particular one was filled with ex-pats who have settled in Rishikesh). You sing mantras and there are people who play instruments. After the musical section, the Baba (the wise man who has studied and has knowledge about ,well, everything) answers one question that the congregation poses, and then you line up to receive a prayer from the Baba.

New friends Roison (Canada) and Thayaaliny (Malaysia)

Monkeying around.

More monkeys.

And more monkeys.

Making chapati, an Indian bread that is rolled and put into a tandoori oven to bake. The bread is then peeled off the sides of the tandoori and is all puffed up and delicious!

View from the hostel, such a contrast from Delhi!

The Sadhus begging for money and food.

Yes, more monkeys....

My tailor!

Wow, I have a lot of monkey pictures.

Some schools boys at the small school in Rishikesh.

Yesterday I took a day trip to a hilltop temple outside of the city. To get there, we took rickshaws, local buses and jeeps. Before our ascent, we sat in one of the hill villages and drank chai, and then visited the temple, which is not a main tourist attraction. The temple overlooked the Himalayas, and I stayed for awhile, just meditating life.
Next stop is Dharmasala, where I hope to spend some time in the Tibetan refugee schools, and maybe catch a glimpse of the Dalai Lama

The cutest little woman I met at the temple. She was very excited to meet me and introduce me to her whole family, who were making offerings at the temple.

Ringing the bell as you leave the temple.

India? Yes, please!!!

Location: Delhi, India
Date: February 11, 2010

My arrival in India was a crazy one. When I got into New Delhi airport, it was 5am…I had arranged an airport pickup with my hostel, and they had not come. I was in a new country with a new language, and I was sleepy. I decided to get a prepaid cab, and after dodging the scammers that wanted me to take their taxis, I crawled into the back of black and yellow cab, gave the driver the address, and sat back, exhausted. As soon as we pulled onto the road, I saw people walking in the dark on the side of ride, trucks full of chickens, and women in beautiful saris riding sidesaddle on the back of motorcycles. I saw cows just wandering down the middle of the road, and I heard music and honking. My driver looked at me and said, “You like Indian music,” and with my reply of “why not?” we had a soundtrack to our journey. The taxis swerved in between tiny spaces that the trucks left, and nearly wounded a cow. We found ourselves in the Neb Sarai area of Delhi, and although we had the address, we couldn’t locate my hostel. My driver asked the people we passed by and the men sitting in the streets around fires, and each person gave a different answer about where the hostel was. As the time passed and the sun came up, I gave up hope that I would get to go to sleep in my hostel soon, so I told the cabbie to take me anywhere he knew of that had a place to sleep. At this point it was 7:30 and we had spent 2 hours driving around! Finally, we made our way to Paharganj, a super busy street in Delhi full of shops, people, cows, rickshaws and colors. I stumbled out of the cab and fell asleep in the hotel to the sounds of horns, dogs barking and people yelling. I had officially arrived in India.

Although my travels have taken me to many different places across the globe, India felt like a world in itself. As I curled up in bed, I listened to the street noises and tried to remind myself that in a few days I would be ok. For the time being, I just felt alone and scared, and so I decided to sleep part of the day before facing the craziness of the streets.

When I finally did wake up, I felt ready to go exploring, and although the streets were so busy that you could barely cross the road, I made my way around the Main Bazaar of Paharganj, staring in awe at the street foods frying and the cows meandering. I found Delhi to be beautiful chaos.

The Lotus temple, a Bahai Place of Worship
In the next few days, I got to know the city a bit, which took a bit of time since there was so much going on all at once. I explored the Lotus temple, a Bahai place of worship, and spent hours in the many markets. I took swerving rickshaw rides that made you thankful for each moment you stayed alive…the traffic in Delhi is pure disorder. Cars drive alongside of cows and bicyclists and trucks and somehow the rickshaws are able to find little tiny spaces to squeeze their way through. I even had one rickshaw driver who liked to drive next to the trucks and scrawl something into the dirt on the side. Comforting….

Cows!

The business of the streets of Paharganj, Delhi

A man outside of the market, sitting on chicken cages

I spent some time strolling in the spice market, and it was on this day that I abandoned my fear of India which was replaced by an absolute fascination and adoration of this land. I had finally gotten the guts to take a rickshaw by myself- which in itself is a long process- seeking out drivers, bargaining for a fair price, and then making it to your destination alive- when I got to the market, I was surrounded by so many people and I was bit afraid I wouldn’t be able to find my own way. Yet, as soon as I started walking, I smiled at the people and they smiled back, and I spent hours just chatting and watching and laughing, and it was a lovely day. People would ask me to pose in pictures with them, and I in turn, would do the same. A man who drove a rickshaw walked me through the crowds (after I refused the rickshaw) to get to the Red Fort, helping me find my way, without asking for compensation or anything.

Busy busy busy!

The colors of the markets

Spices

Red fort

I ran into a school group at the Red Fort that I spent the following few hours with. I met them in line outside the fort and they practiced their English with me and we toured the site together. When I finally did have to go my own way, the entire group looked at me and waved, shouting goodbye. It was really a beautiful day.

People here are so kind and will go out of their way to help you with whatever it is you need. They are gentle and sweet and love to laugh. It is sometimes difficult to know when you are being swindled, but overall, I have found India to be protective of solo women travelers and the worst that is going to happen is that you pay an extra 20 cents or so

The school group

Some local kids at the Red Fort

Two teachers from the West and the East

Saying goodbye to the school girls was hard!

Heading out of Delhi to a place called Rishikesh on the sleeper train tomorrow. It is one of the yoga capitals of the world, so I should find some respite there after the craziness of Delhi. I am working my way up north to Dharmasala, and then on to West India (I think!). Stay tuned.

Namaste