Friday, February 26, 2010


Location: Manikaran, India and McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala), India
Date: February 26, 2010

Before coming to Dharmasala, I spent a few days in the Parvati Valley, in a tiny village called Manikaran. After switching buses three times to accumulate to more than a 20 hour bus ride (on a local bus, which means sitting 3 in a row on a bench-like seat with no padding), I arrived in Manikaran. Our few days in the tiny village were splendid, and I got the chance to do many things in my 2 days there. Yet, the journey had a few downs in addition to all of its ups. I do admit to loving India, but this particular trip was a little bit trying. The bus rides themselves were ok, and I am pretty acclimated to traveling on bumpy roads, but when the small motion sick Nepalese boy threw up 2 inches from my bag in the aisle of the bus and I watched it creep closer and closer to my bag for the next for 50 kilometers (AKA 3 hours!), I was not too thrilled. Then we arrived at our destination at 5am and found an open hostel. Yet, when I got ready to sleep and went to brush my teeth, I saw about 6 foot long worms swimming in the toilet bowl! The hostel worker didn’t see any issue, “No problem- they don’t come out, they stay inside…” EW!!!!! So, needless to say, I didn’t have the sweetest dreams that night. The next day the nightmare of the vomit and the worms had faded a bit, and I got to explore the tiny tourist-free town. The town is centered around a beautiful rainbow colored temple, and there are holy baths that are there for men and women.


The piles of potatoes and lettuce used for mass food making.


We got to see the temple and then followed the crowd to a place that served food. When we entered, we saw that is was sort of a cafeteria, with strips of cloth on the ground that people sat on while they ate. There were gigantic pots for cooking and piles upon piles of vegetables on the crowd. We sat and they served us the most delicious Indian meal I have had so far. When we got up to pay, they told us that it was a free meal, open to everyone. I was completely taken aback by this notion- nothing in India is free, especially for tourists, and here was this temple that offered us amazing service and generosity at no cost.

From left to right: Swami, his sister and his friend.
In the afternoon, I saw a few children reading from an English textbook, so I went to chat with them. Since it was a village town, I assumed that the smaller kids wouldn’t be able to speak English, but Swami, the boy, really impressed me, and we ended up reading and chatting for an hour or so while looking over his book. During this time, the people on the streets kind of came up and watched us, surprised to see a tourist reading with a little local boy. It was a lovely afternoon.


Still haven't figured out what this animal is- something between a cow and a yak.


View of the Himalayas!

The small town of Manikaran.


McLeod Ganj, current home of the Dalai Lama.



The tiny town of Pulgar, a 2 mile hike from the road.


Drying clothes in front of the Himalayas.

Tibetan temple complex.

The next night, my friends Roisin and Louie and I took a bus to Dharmasala, the home of the Dalai Lama. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet, over 250,000 Tibetans traveled on foot over the Himalayas and settled in this town. Most of their heritage had been destroyed by the Chinese, and they are still unable to practice their religion freely in Tibet. So, buried in this small mountain town are hundreds of maroon and gold robed Buddhist monks, wandering the streets and praying in the temple. I got to visit the temple yesterday where the monks sing their prayers, and where the Dalai Lama stays when he is in McLeod Ganj. I got the pleasure of hearing the monks sing and then walking around the temple. It was extraordinary to see them all at prayer, and if you have never heard Tibetan Monks sing, I highly recommend looking it up. The big news is that the Dalai Lama will be here in 2 days! Right now he is in the states, but he is coming home, and I get to see him here in McLeod Ganj! I’ve changed a little bit of my schedule so I am able to stay and hear his teachings here and I couldn’t be more excited!!! Heading to a Tibetan refugee school today and then will do some light trekking in these beautiful mountains.

Tibetan monks at prayer.

Thinking about everyone at home and wishing you all much love.