Peja, Pristina and beyond...

Precious photo! An elderly Macedonian couple in the old city of Skopje, taking some time to relax...

Location: Peja, Pristina, Kosovo and Skopje, Macedonia

Date: December 24, 2009

Outside of the city of Peja is the region called Rugova, which is filled with beautiful snowy white mountains and tiny villages. I got the chance to drive out here with Skender and Ellen, and we explored a bit of the Gorge.

On Monday, I got the opportunity to accompany Ellen on one of her meetings to accredit an NGO. Most of the organizations she works with are Albanian, since 90% of the people in Kosovo are Albanian, but this time she was going to visit a Serbian NGO and she invited me along. Because of the war between the Serbians and Albanians, these two nationalities do not get along. Most of Kosovo was destroyed in the war in 1998 and 1999, and the relations are a long time in becoming repaired. Therefore, having the chance to see the Serbian side of things in predominately Albanian Kosovo was pretty exciting.

After the two hour meeting, we just got to chat with Zoran and Milivoje (Zoran only spoke Serbian so we had to use Milivoje as a translator, and this kind of communication can, at time, be frustrating). Zoran, the head of this Serbian NGO, got out a book to show us that he had saved since he was a child. He read us a bit of it in Serbian. As a person interesting in teaching reading, I was beyond thrilled that this book was such a treasure to him. He had it hanging from his office, stored safely in a plastic bag, and it was quite a privilege to have him read it to us!

Zoran reading to Ellen and I

After the meeting, Milivoje offered to take us into the Serbian side of town so that I could buy some books in Serbian. In each country, I have been buying children books in that native language to add to my library for my classroom. This Serbian part of town was a place I had not expected to go, since the Albanian sides and the Serbian sides do not usually have much interaction. Even Ellen, who has lived in Peja on and off for 6 years had not had this opportunity before! After the book store, Milivoje took us to the Serbian monastery, and we entered after greeting the Swedish guards at the gate.

Afterwards, we went into the capital of Kosovo, Pristina. Milivoje and his "brother," Dejan, who was actually his cousin, showed us great hospitality by driving us right into the city center. It seemed that Dejan did not come into the city much, because in the car, he was slouching the whole time, and made comments indicating that he was nervous because it wasn't a safe place for Serbians to come.

Later that afternoon, I spent more time with my new Albanian friends, back in Peja. It was so fascinating to be able to cross the border from Albanian to Serbian and then back again, and hear their stories.
One of the walls in the center of Pristina, showing family members that have been missing since the war in 1999.

Some of my book collection- including Portuguese, Spanish, Albanian, Serbian and Macedonian books!!!
I got the chance to go into another school called Lidhje Prizrenit in Kosovo before the kids were let out for winter vacation. This was a 1st grade class. I was totally impressed with the teaching- the teacher, Mrs. Bajri, was using all kinds of strategies to help the children learn- visual, auditory, sensory...she was having them count the syllables and put their fingers under their chins to feel what the word sounded like. Though there were 37 kids in the classroom, each of them was following along- just by listening to the teacher's instruction....as Joe would say, "Very cool."

This morning, I headed out to Skopje, Macedonia, to get more pages added to my passport. This is Peja this morning.
This is Skopje, Macedonia, a 4-5 hour bus drive from Peja. Unlike Kosovo, Macedonia is a predominately Orthodox country (and you can see the cross on the mountain).


Did you know?

Mother Teresa was born in Skopje!!! We went to the Mother Teresa memorial here.

Macedonian flag

This afternoon, after I finished getting pages added to my passport at the ridiculously giant, well protected American embassy in Skopje, I had to find my way back to the city center. Although I am picking up a few words in Albanian, Macedonian is a completely different language and I couldn't use anything I learned. I hailed a cab, got in, and described (and acted out) the GIANT Christmas tree that was in the city center. He seemed to know, but then pulled over a minute later and asked again where I needed to go. I got out a few receipts from the places I had been in the center, and again he nodded his head. But two minutes later, he pulled over again, dialed a number, and put me on his cell phone with his daughter, who knows "very good English." As I told his daughter I needed to go to the Christmas tree, she just kept saying that she didn't understand me, but after a few minutes, I got it across where I needed to go. Although it took a while to figure it all out, I got to where I needed to be. I think it will take a little getting used to not speaking the language, but it is definitely a challenge I am up to!

3 months of traveling already!!! I can't believe it.

Happy Holidays to all, and a warm New Year :)

Happy Birthday Joe Mirenna!

"You are smart, beautiful, and good...and that's why she likes you."

A few blocks away from my homestay, beautiful snowy Peja

Two students in the 6th grade class at their studies

Location: Peja, Kosovo

Date: December 22, 2009

Tungjateta! Mirë se ardhë në Pejë!

When I arrived at the airport in Pristina, Kosovo, I was the first to pick up my bags and leave through security. As I walked into the frigid winter air, I couldn't help but notice all of the tall, darkly clad men smoking cigarettes and staring at me like I was on a catwalk. I tried to scurry away and blend into the crowd, but my bright red hat and free flowing pants made me stick out...way out. At first, this constant staring made me really uncomfortable. Along the streets of Peja or inside the little smoky cafes, I was like a commodity, men just staring, but after 6 days, I am starting to find this kind of treatment endearing and I have come to absolutely adore the idiosyncrasies of this beautiful town.

I tried to catch the "smoky bar" feel, but this was the best I could do.

Birds on the gate in the snow on one of the school days

After I arrived, I met up with Ellen, a woman who runs an NGO called ERA (Environmentally Responsible Action), which helps local youth get out in the wilderness of the region.

This is Ellen!

I was able to meet with other members of her team over a rich cup of Turkish coffee. Since there are no hostals in Peja, Ellen offered her house as a homestay, so I really get to experience the local culture. On Thursday and Saturday (make-up day) I was able to go into the schools (before they pause for vacation), and help out in the classrooms. The first school, Xhemajl Kada, is a primary school, and holds students from first to ninth year. After arriving, I was ushered into the teacher's lounge, a large room full of teachers puffing cigarettes under giant "No Smoking" signs. After sharing a coffee in the teacher's lounge with Naime Studenica, the English teacher, I was able to help out in the 6th grade and 9th grade class.

This sign caught me a bit off guard, since it was inside of the school, but the principal informed me that it was just there because the school had been used as a polling station in the recent elections. Then I wasn't worried at all.

Both classrooms were fascinating. The rooms were large and heated by small wood stoves at the front of the classrooms. I have to say that I was really impressed with the 6th graders' knowledge of English. They asked me all sorts of questions and were really interested in knowing about what I thought about America. After the lesson, they wrote me signs such as "yor beautiful" and "thanks for coming to kosovo...kosovo + america...." The children were so happy and excited to have a visitor, and they even asked for my signature at the end of class. Leaving that classroom, I really felt like a Hollywood star.

The teacher, Mrs. Sanaja, of the 4th grade class.

Like most adolescent students, the 9th graders were more rowdy and less interested in their studies. Not all students had books, so they had to share or write the content on the board. Though they seemed disinterested in my visit, they all came up and stood near me at the end of class, and said, "America!" when I left.

My favorite class (I know you aren't supposed to have favorites, but since it isnt my classroom I think it is ok...) was the 4th grade class of the second school I went to visit. I had encountered the school through a local youth who had told me his mom was a teacher. When I got to the school, I was greeted by the principal and again, given a coffee, and then shown to the classroom. The children were smiling, and asked me all sorts of questions, "What do you think of Kosovo," "How old are you?" "Do you like Hannah Montana?" The son of the teacher was able to translate the questions for me and respond to the students in Albanian. Most of the students had learned one year of English, so they could say a few things, but one student was fluent and chatted to me throughout his lesson, yelling from the back of the room. He was sitting next to a little girl who looked just like him, giant smile and brown curly hair. He said to me, "You are a good teacher. I like you. My sister likes you. She likes you because you are smart, beautiful and good, and that's why she likes you..." At this moment, his sister walked up to me from the back of the room and gave me a big hug and kiss. So cute! At the end of the class, the students came up and thanked me, each of them giving me 3 kisses on the cheeks...so that morning I got about 111 kisses! Lucky me!

Here they are, the most complimentary students EVER!

That evening, I was invited to the principal's house for tea and coffee. Since Ellen does some programs with that school, she came along, and we got to spend the evening with the principal, his wife, who is also a teacher, their 3 children, and their daughter's brand new baby girl. It was a lovely evening.

Tonight, I went into a coffee shop with Ellen and her boyfriend, Skender, who was meeting some of his friends. Ellen and I sat down at a table while Skender went to join his friends at a different table. A moment later, I noticed a man standing at our table, and assuming it was Skender's friend, I stood up to shake his hand and introduce myself. After shaking his hand and saying, "Ali," I sat back down, and in Albanian, he asked us what we'd like to drink....at that moment, I realized he was our waiter, and not a new acquaintance. Although I was embarrassed, I shook it off and enjoyed my mint tea. We walked up to Dennis (as I learned his name was) to pay, and he said in Albanian, "No, it's on me..." and then in English, "It's nice to meet new friends..." haha. What fun!

Hospitality is an important aspect of life in Kosovo. So far, I think I received 6 coffees, 3 stickers, and two desserts "on the house." This doesn't mean the waiter is looking for a tip- in fact, tipping here is rare, and leaving a 50 cent Euro piece is plenty. People are just really kind, and paying for guests is a common practice.

Oh, and I joined the local gym! After all that fried food in Brazil, I wanted to try to get in better shape. Since I'll be here for 3+ weeks, I figured I would be able to hit up the gym a few times a week and maybe meet some locals. I can't say the gym is the nicest I've ever been to, but it's got a funny little broken bicycle and some weights so I am happy. Every day from 5-6 is "girl's hour" so I am getting to know some lovely Albanian ladies, though the communication barrier is still an issue.

Upon arrival to Kosovo, I was uncertain about the weeks to come. I had feared the worst- burnt buildings, soldiers on every corner, and remnants of the destruction and pain that Kosovo faced 10 years ago. However, the reality of what I see is smiling children working hard on their studies, generous people, and a nation rebuilding and moving on, optimistic that each day brings new opportunities and experiences to this young state, ready to take on the future

Faleminderit për leximin! Shihemi se shpeti!

BONUS: Creature!!!!

Location: Iguazu Falls, Brazilian side

After a little reflection, I decided to post this BONUS blog...

A little extra post for a very beautiful little creature. I studied this guy for awhile during my day at Foz de Iguazu. He teetered for a while on the railing and slowly made his way across it, taking his time not to slip off. Mystical little butterfly- thought I´d share him and his story with you...

The cool thing about this was the sound from the waterfalls was ROARING but this little guy took no notice, and just continued on his walk. There were many other tourists around and stuff going on in the background, but the butterfly just focused on his mission to cross the railing by feet-haha- (though he could have flown!)

I tried to post a video of the butterfly so you could hear the falls but it didn´t work.

Burnt from my eyelids to my belly button...

WELCOME TO RIO DE JANEIRO.....

Sarongs sold on the beach

Does the picture walk tell the story? If not, please read on....

Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Date: December 9, 2009

...Rio de Janeiro...a sweltering city full of bikini clad women (and men), drinkable coconuts, samba music and caipirinhas (a delicious lime based drink enriched with rum and sugar). Coming to Rio I had no idea what to expect, and even as I get more familiar with the city it still surprises me.

Though Rio is known for its beaches, I havent gotten the chance to experience them since it has been pouring here since I´ve arrived (with the exception of today, when I ran outside to catch every drop of sun, thereby frying myself...). I got to walk along the beach coast and see the mountains that kiss the beaches. Quite stunning views, even when it´s cloudy. The Brazilian people and I have been playing a grand game of charades since I no longer speak the language. People who speak Portugese can understand me but when they answer I haven´t a foggiest clue as to what they are saying. Its a very cruel trick but it´s all part of the game.

Here are a few views from Christo Blanco, the everpresent giant white Jesus that can be found in most Latinamerican cities. From here, Rio looks like such a peaceful city. In truth, Rio can actually be quite dangerous. Muggings are extremely common and there is a lot of conflict because of the dissension between the rich and the poor. In the hills of Rio are favelas, which re the poorest neighborhoods. Many of these neighborhoods are run by the mafia or druglords and the members of the community are openly brandishing arms. Although these communities exist, it is kind of a -don´t bother us, we won´t bother you- situation. This week I plan on going to an afterschool program they have in one of the favelas that is open to the public. Needless to say, I am making sure to be extremely careful and take caution with whatever activity I do. I am staying in beautiful Ipanema, a lovely and safe neighborhood, and so far I have felt extremely safe.

Everything is fried here and pao de quiejo (or cheese bread) has been my best friend. It is tapioca flour mashed and then mixed with cheese and friend...delicious! It´s hard to get ahold of veggie food here, so I´m indulging a bit and eating these fried cheese balls. Rio, and Brazil in general, also has lots of delicious tropical fruits. Guava, lychee, acai, passion fruit, jackfruit and cashew fruit are readily found here, and I have enjoyed trying a new fruit each day.

Another commonality here is the desire to get out and about. Despite the rain, I have seen people jogging along the beach or the lake, in their sexiest get-ups. Women here show off their body with pride, despite age and weight, and it is almost impossible to encounter a one-piece bathing suit. Old men chil on the beach in their Havaianas and bikini bottoms, and seem like the happiest people on earth. It is wonderful to see people so content with their bodies, and it is a first time for me to experience this kind of culture.

The Cathedral in downtown Rio

Inside the cathedral. The view looking up at the ceiling.

My artistic shot of a lady cleaning the windows at the Natural History Museum in Rio

Other highlights:

1. The Brazilian side of the waterfalls. Foz de Iguazu is the continuation of the waterfalls on the Argentine side. On the bus to the waterfalls, I met some great new friends that came to Brazil for a friend´s wedding, together, Cate, Anwar and I headed to check on the waterfalls, which were spectacular. (Scroll down to visit the falls and the cool creatures at the falls...)

2. Later on in the day, we decided to visit Itaipu, a giant dam that supplies Paraguay with 90% of its power and 20% of Brazil´s. The dam was massive, and for a moment, I got to cross into Paraguay (without a Visa-woohoo!)

3. The 26 hour bus ride from Foz de Iguazu to Rio de Janeiro. Enough said.

SMile!!!

Sadly, it´s time to say goodbye to the beautiful continent of South America, an enchanting place full of gracious people, beautiful landscapes, and interestnig critters. I would love to spend more time here, but as Tom Petty says, `it´s time to move on, time to get going, what lies ahead I have no way of knowing.`

I fly into London on my way to Kosovo, so I will be there for 2 short days before I embark on my journey into Eastern Europe.

beijos brazilianos and happy birthday to Aron and Cam :)