A few blocks away from my homestay, beautiful snowy Peja
Two students in the 6th grade class at their studies
Location: Peja, Kosovo
Date: December 22, 2009
Tungjateta! Mirë se ardhë në Pejë!
When I arrived at the airport in Pristina, Kosovo, I was the first to pick up my bags and leave through security. As I walked into the frigid winter air, I couldn't help but notice all of the tall, darkly clad men smoking cigarettes and staring at me like I was on a catwalk. I tried to scurry away and blend into the crowd, but my bright red hat and free flowing pants made me stick out...way out. At first, this constant staring made me really uncomfortable. Along the streets of Peja or inside the little smoky cafes, I was like a commodity, men just staring, but after 6 days, I am starting to find this kind of treatment endearing and I have come to absolutely adore the idiosyncrasies of this beautiful town.
I tried to catch the "smoky bar" feel, but this was the best I could do.
Birds on the gate in the snow on one of the school days
After I arrived, I met up with Ellen, a woman who runs an NGO called ERA (Environmentally Responsible Action), which helps local youth get out in the wilderness of the region.
This is Ellen!
I was able to meet with other members of her team over a rich cup of Turkish coffee. Since there are no hostals in Peja, Ellen offered her house as a homestay, so I really get to experience the local culture. On Thursday and Saturday (make-up day) I was able to go into the schools (before they pause for vacation), and help out in the classrooms. The first school, Xhemajl Kada, is a primary school, and holds students from first to ninth year. After arriving, I was ushered into the teacher's lounge, a large room full of teachers puffing cigarettes under giant "No Smoking" signs. After sharing a coffee in the teacher's lounge with Naime Studenica, the English teacher, I was able to help out in the 6th grade and 9th grade class.
This sign caught me a bit off guard, since it was inside of the school, but the principal informed me that it was just there because the school had been used as a polling station in the recent elections. Then I wasn't worried at all.
Both classrooms were fascinating. The rooms were large and heated by small wood stoves at the front of the classrooms. I have to say that I was really impressed with the 6th graders' knowledge of English. They asked me all sorts of questions and were really interested in knowing about what I thought about America. After the lesson, they wrote me signs such as "yor beautiful" and "thanks for coming to kosovo...kosovo + america...." The children were so happy and excited to have a visitor, and they even asked for my signature at the end of class. Leaving that classroom, I really felt like a Hollywood star.
The teacher, Mrs. Sanaja, of the 4th grade class.
Like most adolescent students, the 9th graders were more rowdy and less interested in their studies. Not all students had books, so they had to share or write the content on the board. Though they seemed disinterested in my visit, they all came up and stood near me at the end of class, and said, "America!" when I left.
My favorite class (I know you aren't supposed to have favorites, but since it isnt my classroom I think it is ok...) was the 4th grade class of the second school I went to visit. I had encountered the school through a local youth who had told me his mom was a teacher. When I got to the school, I was greeted by the principal and again, given a coffee, and then shown to the classroom. The children were smiling, and asked me all sorts of questions, "What do you think of Kosovo," "How old are you?" "Do you like Hannah Montana?" The son of the teacher was able to translate the questions for me and respond to the students in Albanian. Most of the students had learned one year of English, so they could say a few things, but one student was fluent and chatted to me throughout his lesson, yelling from the back of the room. He was sitting next to a little girl who looked just like him, giant smile and brown curly hair. He said to me, "You are a good teacher. I like you. My sister likes you. She likes you because you are smart, beautiful and good, and that's why she likes you..." At this moment, his sister walked up to me from the back of the room and gave me a big hug and kiss. So cute! At the end of the class, the students came up and thanked me, each of them giving me 3 kisses on the cheeks...so that morning I got about 111 kisses! Lucky me!
Here they are, the most complimentary students EVER!
That evening, I was invited to the principal's house for tea and coffee. Since Ellen does some programs with that school, she came along, and we got to spend the evening with the principal, his wife, who is also a teacher, their 3 children, and their daughter's brand new baby girl. It was a lovely evening.
Tonight, I went into a coffee shop with Ellen and her boyfriend, Skender, who was meeting some of his friends. Ellen and I sat down at a table while Skender went to join his friends at a different table. A moment later, I noticed a man standing at our table, and assuming it was Skender's friend, I stood up to shake his hand and introduce myself. After shaking his hand and saying, "Ali," I sat back down, and in Albanian, he asked us what we'd like to drink....at that moment, I realized he was our waiter, and not a new acquaintance. Although I was embarrassed, I shook it off and enjoyed my mint tea. We walked up to Dennis (as I learned his name was) to pay, and he said in Albanian, "No, it's on me..." and then in English, "It's nice to meet new friends..." haha. What fun!
Hospitality is an important aspect of life in Kosovo. So far, I think I received 6 coffees, 3 stickers, and two desserts "on the house." This doesn't mean the waiter is looking for a tip- in fact, tipping here is rare, and leaving a 50 cent Euro piece is plenty. People are just really kind, and paying for guests is a common practice.
Oh, and I joined the local gym! After all that fried food in Brazil, I wanted to try to get in better shape. Since I'll be here for 3+ weeks, I figured I would be able to hit up the gym a few times a week and maybe meet some locals. I can't say the gym is the nicest I've ever been to, but it's got a funny little broken bicycle and some weights so I am happy. Every day from 5-6 is "girl's hour" so I am getting to know some lovely Albanian ladies, though the communication barrier is still an issue.
Upon arrival to Kosovo, I was uncertain about the weeks to come. I had feared the worst- burnt buildings, soldiers on every corner, and remnants of the destruction and pain that Kosovo faced 10 years ago. However, the reality of what I see is smiling children working hard on their studies, generous people, and a nation rebuilding and moving on, optimistic that each day brings new opportunities and experiences to this young state, ready to take on the future
Faleminderit për leximin! Shihemi se shpeti!
