Water Buffalo Milk Chai...ah.

Little moment: I was walking in the streets of Pushkar the other day, looking into the shops and watching the people on the streets. I walked by a shop with two shopowners sitting outside who were about to drink chai. So, basically, people here drink chai like 10 times a day- it's like tea to the Turkish. Anyway, so I am looking at this shopowner, who brings the chai to his lips, takes a sip, gives a little smile, and just says, "ahhhhh...." as if it was his first cup of chai ever. Just a really neat moment.

Moving west from Dharamsala into the state of Rajisthan. Above is my view from the sleeping compartment on the sleeper bus. The bus stopped sometime in the the early morning and vendors came onto the bus, selling all sorts of foods.

Location: Pushkar, Rajisthan, India
Date: March sometime- so hard to remember the day.... 2010

Pushkar is a small town that is set on a lake, which is now empty. Apparently, the lake, which normally fills during monsoon season, was poisoned by someone last year, killing all of the fish and forcing the town to drain the lake. Around the lake is a series of baths, where the people bath and use as a holy site. At night, you can sit by the lake and watch the bathings, as people light candles and flowers to float on the lake and then pray. Every night at sunset, a group of people play the drums and other instruments as the sun goes down. Although the town is tiny, the lake provides a much needed refuge from the busy streets...filled like many streets in India with everything from cows to rickshaws to women scooting around on wooden planks asking for money. You see these beggars everyday, asking for money or food, and it is always a hard choice to make whether or not to give money. Yet, one night when I was walking home I saw one of the women stand up from her wooden plank and walk around. India can be so deceiving- you never know which way is up, but I guess that is also part of its beauty.

Two of my little friends from Pushkar, working on their math. When I told them I was a teacher, they went through their notebook with me and showed me that they did their work correctly. Good students :)

The Sadhus outside of one of the Hindu temples.

One of my favorite sites on the the streets of Pushkar, the happy man who makes falafel everyday and greets everyone who passes with a giant smile.

View of the lake and the holy baths

More views

Natu, the drummer, and the drums at sunset.

On a walk around the lake, we saw a tiny sweet shop in a doorway. This woman and her friend, Monica (15 years) were standing there, playing with a rubics cube. We bought some sweets and they invited us inside their home for Assam tea. They pulled out a rug and we sat outside, drinking her amazing ayurvedic tea and chatting for an hour or so. It was lovely. Many times it is a question of whether or not to offer money in exchange for a kind deed- and I have struggled a lot with that in India- to give or not to give, and this was one of the first times when money wasn't a question- conversation, tea, and friendship were the other factors involved. On the way out, I was able to give Monica a bracelet that I had received from a student in Bolivia, 5 months ago, and pass along good luck.

Temple in Pushkar at night

Sometimes the craziness of it get to me. The constant overstimulation of people talking, cars beeping, cows eating plastic bags....all of it. So I decided to go overnight on a camel safari out of the noise. The safari led you outside of the city, through a bit of desert and then into the surrounding Indian farmland. This was by far my most memorable experience in India, since I got to stay with a family and see what their lives are like on a daily basis. Above is my tired camel, Krishna, taking a little nap.

Along the way, we walked through a gypsie village. The children of the village came running out, and sat with us. The children are so beautiful, but in their eyes is the hardened look that indicates a tough life. Apparently, they aren't allowed to live inside of the Indian cities because of their lifestyle. We were told that the families try to sell the girls at a young age for sex and will go to extremes just to get money so they must live outside of the cities.

When we got to the farm, I met my first water buffalo!!! Upon arrival, the grandma of the family milked the buffalo and I watched in awe as she made us fresh chai!

The view of the farm. Reika is in the saree, doing the laundry, and little Pooja is running around.

Pooja, the most active 4 year old I have ever met...just doing her thing (Note the satellite dish in the upper right hand corner. TV and cell phones are everywhere!).

Spending some time with Babi, the grandmother, and learning to make fresh chai.

Watching (and helping) Karita do her homework. She had learned the entire English alphabet and we were singing it together. Unfortunately, I learned that at her school, "G" is for gun...

Babi and Reika preparing the amazing dinner. I chatted with them as they cooked, in awe of their work.

After a night of amazing food and company, I got to sleep on the rooftop, under the stars. As soon as I was up, Pooja attacked, making sure my hair looked pretty for the journey home.

Babi, Pooja, and Karita...basically what was happening here was Pooja was squeezing the baby goat after chasing it all around the farm. Babi was telling her to let it go, and Karita was exhausted and falling asleep on the blankets.

...and then she woke up!

The whole family and myself. I'd really love to go back and spend some more time. Although I was only there for a night, I got the chance to start to get to know this incredible family- I spent the night looking at pictures, watching and learning...and it was fantastic.

Only 2 days left in India. Leaving tomorrow and heading to Agra (Taj Mahal) and then back to Delhi to fly to Bangkok. Thus far, India has been the most challenging place for travel. Luckily, during the course of my journey, I got the chance to meet and travel a bit with two spectacular ladies who helped me process all that was going on around me. Thank you Thayaa and Roisin, you rock my world. As a person who immediately puts faith in those I meet, it has been such a struggle to take a step back and try not to trust everyone right away. The poverty and the perception of tourists as rich makes traveling here difficult at times, and the swindling and touting is exhausting and sad. Yet, I have also met and befriended some of the kindest, and most genuine people. Oh, India.

Final note...

I sent a package home- and I found out that they SEW the packages! It takes about 20 minutes to get one package prepared to go. Imagine going to your local post office with a package and watching them sew it...not likely.

Happy Birthday Bella, celebrating with you in spirit!